There are no strangers here; only friends you have not yet met.

“D’ya realize how long you’ve been in Europe?” the Irish immigration officer asked.

“Well,” I smiled. “I like to think that I’m less in Europe at this point than it’s in me.”

He was not amused. “What the feck does that mean!? What are ya? Some kind of poet or somethin'?”

I smiled and did a little performative bow. Kindness and charm usually worked wonders. But this morning, after stepping off the ferry from Cherbourg, France to Dublin, Ireland, Officer O’Flynn was neither charitable nor open to kindness.

I'd just disembarked the overnight crossing. I was a little bit scared, but afraid to let it show. I'd wandered around with barely a plan for months and expected it to work here. All of a sudden, things were a bit too official when I least expected it.

“Well, I don’t care what ya do for a livin’… ya show up in my country—no return flight or trip, no forwarding address—just a ‘trust me’ attitude! How would you feel if I showed up in your country, hat in hand and a promise not to overstay?”

I had the feeling in my gut that my natural answer would not be received well: Why, welcome to Texas! Try Pecan Lodge BBQ—it’s a helluva good time! Stay out of Austin, it’s more California than Texas these days.

So instead I just smiled and eased out, “I can understand your point of view. I assure you, we mean no harm. Just here wrapping up an extended journey before heading back to Texas in the US.”

He flips through my passport book for the fourth time.

“So when did ya come into Europe?” he asks dismissively, flipping pages. “And why don’t you have any other stamps besides Spain?”

“December 10,” I answer. “And I went from Portugal to Spain to France to Italy to France to Italy to Switzerland to Italy to Switzerland to Italy to Switzerland to Germany to Liechtenstein to Germany to France over the course of more than two months, and not once has a crossing asked for anything. A few times I even stopped and asked them to review and stamp my passport. Always the same message: ‘We don’t do that here.’”

“I came with a return flight, but decided to overstay that and cancelled it, planning to rebook when I was out of time and energy for exploring the continent. Ireland is just the last leg, and I might add, the highlight of my trip. My Irish ancestors left here in 1648 and never looked back. I’m here for me, for my father, and for my art.”

O’Flynn is unmoved. Subtly rolls his eyes and stamps the book.

I light up. “Oh! Yay! Thank you. Don’t worry—I won’t disappoint your trust.”

The last thing I want is to get cross with the immigration police and get banned for life. I have a friend this happened to in North America. Left, and when he came back, his home of 30 years was locked out forever.

Wild.

But that’s the cost of romance. You can’t plan every grain of sand. That’s a pilot's move; a pragmatists answer. Poets just wander around until they can’t stand it anymore. It’s a terrifying and electrifying state. You are building the bridge as you cross it, like a cartoon character.

This all occurs to me as I sit in a solarium in western Ireland. The ocean is POUNDING and ROARING a sixth of a mile away. Four donkeys graze in the rain next to a babbling brook that runs down and away from me to the sea. The ubiquitous stone walls divide the landscape beneath me into paddocks. How beautiful that they never adopted the grotesque barbed wire we run everywhere back in the United States.

This landscape is very much like Officer O’Flynn: hard and unforgiving, but with good reason. This island has stood for thousands of years and is fiercely independent. It’s not possible to hold one’s own without keeping your face to the wind. But underneath the harsh exterior is so much beauty that it is tear-inducing. Life everywhere. Celebrated with good beer (nay, great beer) and trad music.

I need to live here for a year. I am not yet bored, and until boredom sets in, creativity can’t truly flourish.

I want to live here, make love here, grow weary of the place and let it grow weary of me.

Typical for a romantic poet-essayist.

I think I’ll go for a walk.

#travel #europe #ireland